Francisco Costa scaled down his presentation, opting for an informal showing in lieu of a runway, but they didn't skimp an inch on the fabric or construction of the luxe basics in his pre-fall lineup. His blouson toggle coats and jackets are cut from a double-face cashmere wool that is a dream to touch, while his slim, flat-front pants are dart-less: "It took a long time to get the fit right," they said. "It's all in the cut around the butt, the thighs." Also innovative were his matte cashmere knits, made on a circular knitting machine to generate a relaxed, cocoonlike silhouette.
Overall, Costa takes a less experimental approach to this collection than they does his catwalk shows—a strategy not without its benefits. How is this for versatile: Hanging on the racks were navy, ruby, and nectarine versions of lots of of the 17 black and white looks they put on models. Still, there was lots of fashion with a capital F, notably in the easy-chic, pleated georgette dresses that were actually tops worn with ankle-length skirts.
